Monday, 18 March 2013


i thought i would upload some pics of my old casts, all of them are plaster solely because it is a lot cheaper than resin or silicone. it is good but obviously you cant really do press molds (this is where you put a dollop of plasticine in your mold and stand on it) and it will always be fragile. if you want to know how i made these check out my earlier post for the basic principles of any mold. so here is some of my earlier work.

stalk body

hand mold

face mold

frankenstein monster head mold

snake monster head top

monster head bottom

stalk wing

as you can see it will pick up a lot of detail and if you make it too thin it will break. if it does break you can glue it back together but more likely than not it will keep on breaking.
on a side note i seem to always make things with feathers or scales, if you have ever made a scaley figure can you please leave a comment as to what you think is the best way of doing it as i put them on individually and it takes forever. i am pretty happy with my feathers though.


Monday, 11 March 2013

always doing something

hello again. whenever I am out I obviously can't sculpt, and i've tried, so I draw on my phone. the app I use is the brilliant sketchbook and I recommend it to anyone as it's basically photoshop light. so here is some of the pics I have drawn whenever i had a moment.

the money tree poster

giant mole



burrowing fly

darksiders 2

may jay


I hope you like my work and have made you consider this app.

Monday, 4 March 2013

Sad Bob the Builder

I had this idea a while ago when all the stop-motion companies were shutting down or moving, i thought  what would happen to jobless puppets which led to Bob the Bum. a year or two later when i was looking in a charity shop i saw a muck toy and it jogged my memory. toy in hand i looked for bob but i couldn't find one so i sculpted him instead. one small detail that i was quite pleased with was his lighter in his belt. anyway, i had also recently bought a heat gun and a precision screwdriver set, so i dismantled muck, melted him in places, wrecked his tracks and put his mouth on upside-down. i also added eyelids to finish the unhappy look and gave him a new paint job and props. i also added some water effects and plants to make it look like he had been there for a while.

Monday, 25 February 2013


I absolutely loved the way Pirates in an adventure with scientists looked, however I did not like the the collectable polly that came out shortly after. multiple reasons really, the cost, size and the only one i had seen in person was a bit cockeyed. so i thought i would make one myself. i was so pleased with the result that i put off painting it, but i eventually came round to it and had it all set up when my cat knocked it off the table breaking her wings, neck and beak as well as basically atomizing some of the feather detail. after much weeping i fixed it and painted it. i was then going to make a pirate captain in the same scale but that will have to wait.
so here it is in all her glory

oh, and forgive my paint work on the globe, didn't plan ahead and i sort of ran out of room.

Wednesday, 20 February 2013

stop motion hand making

hello all, a friend got in touch with me the other day and asked me how i made hands for puppets. well, i thought the easiest way to tell him was through my blog.  [pictures will be added later]
materials list
soft soap
hot glue for glue gun
aluminum wire
epoxy resin (glue)
acrylic paint
milliput (optional)

tools list
sculpting tools
glue gun
wire cutters
nail scissors
mixing tub
marker pen

1. sculpt the hands out of plasticine

2. when happy with the sculpt build a box around it. i usually build mine out of foam-board and hot glue, however this can be a bit costly so if you plan to make lots of molds you may wish to use wood and a couple of L brackets.

3. build up a layer of clay to cradle the hands

4. now, very carefully build up the clay so it is about half way up the sculpt. make sure the clay goes right up to the sculpt and that there are no gaps otherwise the plaster will leak later on. now that is done add a couple of dents with the back of a brush.

5. mix the plaster and pour gently into a corner. now, there is an issue of air bubbles, this can be sorted in a few different ways. you can brush on a few layers of plaster with a very soft brush but it can mark the sculpt if not careful and will ruin your brush. the second technique is to continuously tap and jiggle the table that it sits on but this can lead to a collapse and plaster is not that fun to clean up. the third technique is to glue a nut to an electric motor and attach it to the mold, this has the same possible drawbacks as the previous technique.
if you want to strengthen your mold, add some strips of material(best used if you add layers of plaster instead of just pouring it all in)

6. when that is set dismantle the box, turn it over and remove the clay carefully. once it has all been removed build up another box around it. using clay, make a seal around the edge and add a couple of blocks of clay on opposing sides(this is to lever it open later).

7. now brush on soft soap (can be found online quite easily as normal soap is not exchangeable) onto the plaster only and using a damp sponge mop most of it away. do this several times (the more the better) as this will help the plaster separate later.

8. pour in the plaster as before.

9. when set remove the box and clay. at this point you may want to use a knife to remove any sharp edges. using a pry of some sort open the mold (best do this slowly as to not snap the mold).

10. remove the sculpt and any residual clay. if there are any air bubbles you can mix up a small amount of plaster and fill it in.

11. cut ten lengths of aluminum and position in mold and mark where the palm would be. throughout the process keep checking that it still fits in the mold. tie the lengths together with wire and use epoxy resin to glue it in place. you may then choose to add a little milliput on the palm as an extra strengthening device and to pad out the armature. if you were unable to twist the wire make sure you add a very small amount of milliput to the tips to make sure that it wont rip through the latex later on.

12. mix up some latex and a small amount of acrylic paint and brush it on the mold. add a couple of layers. the latex pictured is the one that i use as it sets quite quickly without the use of any setting agents.

13. place the armature in the mold and fill the two sides with latex, then press the two sides together. apply a couple of clamps.

14. when the latex in the centre is dry you can split the mold and you should have two animatable hands that will just peel out of the mold.

this process may take a couple of attempts at any stage to get it right so don't be downhearted if it goes wrong at any point. i hope you found this useful and you can now apply this process to any part of a stop-motion puppet. if you want a simpler, less detailed hand you can always make the armature and simply dip it into the latex(this will need a few layers with the later ones being mixed with a colour).

Monday, 18 February 2013

rye DIY part 2

after seeing what i made for pat, another friend from work wanted one. i thought i could use the practice so i agreed. however i did not have much time as i would soon be leaving to live in Bristol. this hindered me a bit as i could not refine the sculpt as much as i would have liked but he seemed happy with it and that is what matters.

Monday, 11 February 2013


my most recent model is based on a friend from work, i think it went quite well.